Every Woman Is A Queen

Ormonde Jayne Tiare


Tiare is the latest from British niche line Ormonde Jayne. The tiare flower, as many of you know, is the Tahitian gardenia (Gardenia taitensis), and tiare-based perfumes are usually done in a heady, lush tropical manner — Monyette Paris, Montale Intense Tiare, André Gas Ensoleille Moi, et al. — often with coconut lending a beachy, sunscreen sort of feel. Ormonde Jayne takes a different approach: this Tiare is light and airy. The opening is citrus-y, the florals in the heart are summery and lightly green (and I would not notice gardenia if I was not looking for it), with an ever-so-slightly creamy finish and just a touch of sweetness. The woods in the dry down are pale and mossy-earthy.

Tiare is beautiful, and the mossy dry down is especially lovely. Luca Turin said it was the best thing he’d smelled recently. So why does it not pull at my heart or my wallet? I don’t know, but I had the same reaction to Sampaquita. So, into the purgatory basket it goes: I will try it again in the spring and see if it speaks to me then.

Ormonde Jayne Tiare is available in 50 ml Parfum (£180), 50 ml Eau de Parfum (£68) or in a set of four 10 ml travel sprays (£54). The notes include mandarin, orange flower, sicilian lime, tiare (Tahitian gardenia), freesia, water lilies, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, moss and musk. For buying information, see the listing for Ormonde Jayne under Perfume Houses.